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Behind Amelia Earhart's flight suit, a story of American fashion and celebrity

SCOTT DETROW, HOST:

In honor of the 250th anniversary of the Declaration of Independence, we are running a series called America In Pursuit. It explores culture, history and objects in American life. Next up in the series, NPR's Clare Lombardo tells us about a flight suit made for a woman ahead of her time.

CLARE LOMBARDO, BYLINE: When Amelia Earhart disappeared over the Pacific in 1937, she was trying to become the first woman to fly around the world.

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UNIDENTIFIED COMMENTATOR: This was to have been her greatest achievement, a sky dash of 28,000 miles.

LOMBARDO: But her first first on a long-distance flight was less than a decade prior, not from the cockpit, but from the passenger seat. She was the first woman on a transatlantic flight.

ALISON BAZYLINSKI: She borrowed a man's flight suit for that to stay warm. And actually, when she arrives over in the U.K., she has department stores calling her and messaging her, asking to dress her.

LOMBARDO: Alison Bazylinski, an assistant curator at the Smithsonian's National Postal Museum, says soon after that flight, the department store Arnold Constable made Earhart a brown leather jumpsuit lined with wool.

BAZYLINSKI: It has two large cargo pockets above the knees.

LOMBARDO: A big collar, asymmetrical buttons going up one side and a big belt. It was cool.

BAZYLINSKI: There's a record of it from about two weeks later, saying that three people had purchased it for $175 per suit.

LOMBARDO: About $3,400 today.

BAZYLINSKI: This was a very deliberate marketing choice on their part, particularly at a time when the American fashion industry is really taking off during this time period, and it's with sportswear.

LOMBARDO: Clothes that were stylish but not fussy. Women's Wear Daily guessed that the other buyers were pilots, too, who needed something warm to wear in the sky. Things got icy when Earhart crossed the Atlantic alone a few years later. Here's what she told the BBC.

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AMELIA EARHART: I knew that there was ice being formed because a slush piled up in front of me on the pane through which I could see a few inches.

LOMBARDO: Soon after, Earhart was also designing functional clothing and luggage. And she was already the aviation editor at Cosmopolitan, touting the benefits of air travel, especially for women.

BAZYLINSKI: She is sort of part of this American style aesthetic and ethos that is really coming into its own in this interwar period.

LOMBARDO: This summer, that brown leather suit is on display in the Smithsonian Castle in Washington, D.C., in a special exhibit called American Aspirations.

Clare Lombardo, NPR News.

(SOUNDBITE OF FRANK SINATRA SONG, "FLY ME TO THE MOON") Transcript provided by NPR, Copyright NPR.

NPR transcripts are created on a rush deadline by an NPR contractor. This text may not be in its final form and may be updated or revised in the future. Accuracy and availability may vary. The authoritative record of NPR’s programming is the audio record.

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